November 25, 2012
Atlanta, GA
0430

Arrived in Atlanta about 0930 this morning, exhausted and sort of punch drunk.  Because of the delay getting out of J'burg, we missed our connection to Atlanta and because it's Thanksgiving weekend, Delta couldn't get us on any other flight to get us closer to Redmond.  So I used some Marriott points I had and booked us for a night in the downtown Ritz Carlton to just try to make the best of it.  I did ask Delta to consider upgrading Aislin and Gina to first class on the next day's flight to SLC (I'd already been upgraded) but they basically had a long story about how they didn't have status and didn't have the right ticket code, blah blah.  It was an opportunity for Delta to take some step to redeem itself and it wouldn't have really cost them a dime, but they didn't take it. I get that the airline business is a really tough one and that they're often unfairly criticized, but I also think that there is something wrong with its culture.  They really weren't that sympathetic.  When I first became aware of the scheduling problem, I actually called them from the bush to see how we'd sort it out.  It took a half hour on the phone (and probably cost about $100...) and they were almost hostile.  Not sympathetic on the phone and not very sympathetic in Atlanta.  A little effort would have gone a long way.

But it is what it is.  We went to our hotel thinking that maybe we'd try and enjoy the day and hit the aquarium here but honestly we barely made it through lunch and the girls were just comatose.  They were asleep by about 1300.  I made it to about 1600 I think.  Woke up at about 0145 and tossed and turned for a couple more hours.  Had dreams.  Dreamed about this blue bicycle that I was riding.  Remember being excessively concerned concerned that the handlebars weren't taped. I remember riding by a stock pond and out of the corner seeing a large whale breach.  I knew that wasn't reasonable so I stopped to look back and saw many whales breaching.  I kept riding.  I remember riding down a very steep, narrow wet road, doing switchbacks with trees overhanging the road - somehow I think a memory from somewhere in my life - and coming out to see a man being chased by an elephant in my direction.  I jumped down into a ditch but they did too.  The elephant passed me with scarcely a glance, which was good because I would have been completely helpless to defend myself.

Now we're all awake.  Gina - who honestly can sleep 20 hours, no problem - is noisily packing.  Aislin's on her iPad, just playing around.  I'm taking a moment because we have about another hour before the cab takes us to the airport to begin the fun again.

I'm mostly very sad to leave Africa.  This trip had more travails than others but there's still something about being in the bush and watching and observing animals.  Of course, you can do that anywhere, but anywhere doesn't have the wide array of amazing creatures that I've encountered in Africa.  I look at the rangers we've known and worked with and see their interest and passion for what they do.  There's a lot of dissatisfaction for them too, I"m sure.   Ryan was telling us that the average ranger stays at a lodge for 8 months and then moves on to another lodge.  When asked the reason, it's about moving to a 'better' lodge (meaning, more high end, better game viewing, better tips), or they don't get along with the people they work with.  It's really isolated out there for them and they work 6 days a week with a small number of people.  They maintain a certain presentation for the guests but who knows what goes on behind the scenes.  Lots of room for dysfunction I'm sure.

I think this trip was more challenging for Aislin.  She's changing a lot as she works through her teenage years and I'll be curious to see what her feelings about this trip will be once she's had time to process a bit.  I don't know if she'll be anxious to go back.  She definitely got homesick toward the end of the trip.  Gina I think was just in love with the place.  She would just sit there and smile.  She was born with the happy gene and just seems to have the ability to enjoy wherever she is and I think has a deep passion for nature.  I remember she would look at some gnarly bull elephant and mutter, "How pretty" under her breath. Yes, a magnificent being but I think only a few observers would go to 'pretty'.  I'm so lucky to have her for a partner. I also think it's very hard to travel with a photographer.  I made them get up early and sit in places when no conscientious father/spouse would do that.  They have also had to endure my frustration and depression when the brief period of beautiful light would pass and I had nothing to shoot.  It's the worst thing for a photographer and I wasn't always graceful.

One more day of travel hell ahead of us.  We have a fairly tight connection in SLC so any missteps getting out of Atlanta will make the day interesting.  Then home to the cats, school, work.  I can't really wrap my mind around that yet.  I know for me, I'll head to the office tomorrow and that whirlwind will start up.  I'm trying to not to think about that for as long as possible.

Little baboon

Impala lamb

If you are thinking about going to Africa, go.  Just go.